Day 93.
Traveling on Saturdays is always a trip because in Ghana, Saturday is reserved for funerals. On a short trip (outside of Accra), you are likely to see at least one funeral, and on longer trips, it is not uncommon to see four or five. Funerals in Ghana, though largely Christian ceremonies, incorporate cultural elements that would never be see in the States. In America, people generally wear black to a funeral; in Ghana, people wear the most amazing fabric, a dark slightly shiny black with brown adinkra symbols or white with small black patterns, both with red accents. Older men simply wrap the cloth around them. Women have it made into outfits with a long skirt and matching top. A funeral can be spotted from a mile away because hundreds of people attend every one. Another difference is that during a part of the ceremony, the casket is carried by people though the streets as friends and family members crowd around clapping, singing, dancing. Unlike at home where funeral ceremonies are centered around mourning the dead person, in Ghana, funerals truly are a celebration of life.
Saturday (and exactly three months since I left): Day trip with Carm to Boti Falls in the Eastern Region. Nature hike with a guide named Frank: descended a rainforest valley emerging into a partial cave that was once the home of the natives of Koforidua, climbed vertically arriving in a savannah landscape, relaxed in the shade of Umbrella Rock eating fresh coconut, followed by small children to the three-trunked palm tree, sat on a stone that is thought to make the sitter the bearer of twins (I sat on it twice, thought it might reverse the first time, but maybe I’m having quadruplets), swam in the pool below Boti falls. It rained.
Small things:
All the women here have fake hair. Sometimes it falls out and single braids are found disembodied on the side of the road (Andrew: gross right?).
Because they all have fake hair, the women change their hairstyles monthly, sometimes making it impossible to recognize your friends.
People here sweep all day long. If there is 100 leaves they sweep. If there are 10 leaves they sweep. If there is one leaf they sweep.
My new favorite meal is banku with pepe. Banku is a traditional Ghanaian dish made from cassava and corn that essentially tastes like unbaked sourdough bread. Pepe is a combination of tomatoes, peppers, and onions – spicy. No utensils allowed.
It is so hot now that I don’t even leave the room in the morning before I start sweating.
Last night I realized that I am really going to miss Ghana.
Monday, October 26, 2009
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
a walk in the dark and no power
Day 87.
Saturday: Carmen and I left Legon at 6:45am for an overnight trip to the Volta Region. We went to Wli Falls since Carmen couldn’t come the first time. Though there wasn’t as much water this time, the sky was clear and there was a rainbow at the base of the waterfall that was almost too perfect. We went in the water and worked our way backward towards the falls, fighting the winds. The water got deeper as we got closer and though we were a little scared, we couldn’t stop laughing.
It was getting dark, but Carmen and I wanted to stay the night at the Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary for the 6am tour. We took a tro from Hohoe that we thought would drop us at the sanctuary. At 90kph, I saw the sign “Tafi Atome, 5km” with an arrow pointing right. Realizing that we weren’t stopping, I said, “Mate, Mate! We need to get off”.
Standing alone on the side of the road, in unfamiliar surroundings, we realized that our only option was to walk. It was pitch black by this time and we were on a dirt road flanked by dense vegetation on either side. At first, we were using our cell phone flashlights to guide the way but we turned them off when we realized we were surrounded by fireflies. Looking up it seemed as if the sky was a mirror – the stars stationary reflections of the fireflies below. It was quiet except for the insects and we felt safe. Up ahead, we could see the lights of a town. It wasn’t the sanctuary so we continued on. Almost out of town we were stopped by a very kind man offering us a place to stay if we didn’t want to walk. We thanked him and said we were fine, but asked how much further it was. “Oh, not far, just a stone’s throw, just a stone’s throw”. An hour later, we were there. Apparently, Ghanaian’s can throw stones far.
We have only had running water for about 5 hours in the last month. This week, the power has been off and on all over campus. This means we can’t charge our phones, laptops, or cameras, use internet (or a computer for that matter), lectures that require televisions or powerpoints are cancelled, and all the ice cream is melted. Despite all of that, it is nice when the lights are off, because when the power is out, there is no noise. Everyone retires early and speakers don’t work. I miss the quiet. Last night, I remembered that I had birthday candles, so I stuck three in a piece of bread and Carmen and I watched in silence as they slowly burned, flickering in the wind coming in through our window. After five perfect minutes of thought lost in flame, Carmen noticed that they left the shape of a heart burned into the bread.
Saturday: Carmen and I left Legon at 6:45am for an overnight trip to the Volta Region. We went to Wli Falls since Carmen couldn’t come the first time. Though there wasn’t as much water this time, the sky was clear and there was a rainbow at the base of the waterfall that was almost too perfect. We went in the water and worked our way backward towards the falls, fighting the winds. The water got deeper as we got closer and though we were a little scared, we couldn’t stop laughing.
It was getting dark, but Carmen and I wanted to stay the night at the Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary for the 6am tour. We took a tro from Hohoe that we thought would drop us at the sanctuary. At 90kph, I saw the sign “Tafi Atome, 5km” with an arrow pointing right. Realizing that we weren’t stopping, I said, “Mate, Mate! We need to get off”.
Standing alone on the side of the road, in unfamiliar surroundings, we realized that our only option was to walk. It was pitch black by this time and we were on a dirt road flanked by dense vegetation on either side. At first, we were using our cell phone flashlights to guide the way but we turned them off when we realized we were surrounded by fireflies. Looking up it seemed as if the sky was a mirror – the stars stationary reflections of the fireflies below. It was quiet except for the insects and we felt safe. Up ahead, we could see the lights of a town. It wasn’t the sanctuary so we continued on. Almost out of town we were stopped by a very kind man offering us a place to stay if we didn’t want to walk. We thanked him and said we were fine, but asked how much further it was. “Oh, not far, just a stone’s throw, just a stone’s throw”. An hour later, we were there. Apparently, Ghanaian’s can throw stones far.
We have only had running water for about 5 hours in the last month. This week, the power has been off and on all over campus. This means we can’t charge our phones, laptops, or cameras, use internet (or a computer for that matter), lectures that require televisions or powerpoints are cancelled, and all the ice cream is melted. Despite all of that, it is nice when the lights are off, because when the power is out, there is no noise. Everyone retires early and speakers don’t work. I miss the quiet. Last night, I remembered that I had birthday candles, so I stuck three in a piece of bread and Carmen and I watched in silence as they slowly burned, flickering in the wind coming in through our window. After five perfect minutes of thought lost in flame, Carmen noticed that they left the shape of a heart burned into the bread.
Monday, October 12, 2009
fake money for a fake country
Day 79.
Friday.
6:00pm: meeting to pay for Benin trip to support the Black Stars. 30 Ghana Cedis for international students. Paid. Told to meet at Central Cafeteria at 2am on Sunday to depart. Excitement is high!
Saturday
5:30pm: Meeting finalizing the details of the trip to Benin. International students are told we do not need visas as the organizers have received clearance from the Ministries for us to pass through the Togo and Benin borders with an escort for one day only. All we need to bring is our student id card; bring your passport if you have it. Time change: eet at Central Caf at 11pm, leaving at 12am.
10pm: Time change: text message received stating that the time we are to leave for Benin has been moved from midnight to three am, no reason given.
Sunday
12am: Nap until 2:30am.
2:45am: Walk to Central Caf to find other obrunis and some Ghanaians waiting in the dark. There is a bus but no one in it. I lay in the grass and wait.
3:45am: More people have shown up. Coordinators cannot be reached. We wait.
4:10am: We load the bus, however half of us don’t fit. They stay behind to wait for bus two. We wait in the bus. Many people haven’t slept. Coordinators show up.
5:30am: Bus one leaves UG campus. Bus two is still M.I.A.
9:45am: Arrive in Aflao, the border town. Exchange money from cedis to CFAs. We wait.
10:30am: At the border. The escort has left, as we were supposed to have arrived by 8am. Told by men in uniform that the obrunis will not be permitted to enter Togo or Benin without a visa. $20 in to Togo, $30 into Benin, $20 back in to Togo. No one has enough money or would be willing to pay even if they did. We must wait for bus two so that a bus of Ghanaians can proceed to the game and the obrunis head back to Accra. People are bummed but accept it and keep their cool.
11:30am: Bus two is still behind. We backtrack to meet it.
11:45am: We make the switch. The Ghanaians apologize for us not being able to go. We wish them a great time. Lots of handshakes, snaps, and smiles.
3:00pm: After a long, uncomfortable and hot bus ride, we are back at school. 30 Cedis and 12 hours down the drain.
4:30pm: The Black Stars lose to Benin.
The best part of the day was in Aflao, where Togolese women cross the border to sell baguettes (!) full of avocados, tomatoes, onions, and lettuce. Amazing, not quite worth 30 Cedis and 12 hours, but amazing nonetheless. Despite that fact that we weren’t able to see the game (or even step on Togo soil), the coastal drive to and from the border was beautiful, in an imperfect world, what more could we ask for?
anecdote: When we finally got off the bus, I asked Sauce if he was hungry (which he always is) and he said, jokingly serious, "yeah, but I only have that fake money for that fake country that we never went to". I laughed, then we walked to the traveling market where I bought him lunch in exchange for his fake money that I will use in Senegal. 1,000 CFA will probably get me quite a few more guacamole baguettes (fingers crossed that they have them there).
Friday.
6:00pm: meeting to pay for Benin trip to support the Black Stars. 30 Ghana Cedis for international students. Paid. Told to meet at Central Cafeteria at 2am on Sunday to depart. Excitement is high!
Saturday
5:30pm: Meeting finalizing the details of the trip to Benin. International students are told we do not need visas as the organizers have received clearance from the Ministries for us to pass through the Togo and Benin borders with an escort for one day only. All we need to bring is our student id card; bring your passport if you have it. Time change: eet at Central Caf at 11pm, leaving at 12am.
10pm: Time change: text message received stating that the time we are to leave for Benin has been moved from midnight to three am, no reason given.
Sunday
12am: Nap until 2:30am.
2:45am: Walk to Central Caf to find other obrunis and some Ghanaians waiting in the dark. There is a bus but no one in it. I lay in the grass and wait.
3:45am: More people have shown up. Coordinators cannot be reached. We wait.
4:10am: We load the bus, however half of us don’t fit. They stay behind to wait for bus two. We wait in the bus. Many people haven’t slept. Coordinators show up.
5:30am: Bus one leaves UG campus. Bus two is still M.I.A.
9:45am: Arrive in Aflao, the border town. Exchange money from cedis to CFAs. We wait.
10:30am: At the border. The escort has left, as we were supposed to have arrived by 8am. Told by men in uniform that the obrunis will not be permitted to enter Togo or Benin without a visa. $20 in to Togo, $30 into Benin, $20 back in to Togo. No one has enough money or would be willing to pay even if they did. We must wait for bus two so that a bus of Ghanaians can proceed to the game and the obrunis head back to Accra. People are bummed but accept it and keep their cool.
11:30am: Bus two is still behind. We backtrack to meet it.
11:45am: We make the switch. The Ghanaians apologize for us not being able to go. We wish them a great time. Lots of handshakes, snaps, and smiles.
3:00pm: After a long, uncomfortable and hot bus ride, we are back at school. 30 Cedis and 12 hours down the drain.
4:30pm: The Black Stars lose to Benin.
The best part of the day was in Aflao, where Togolese women cross the border to sell baguettes (!) full of avocados, tomatoes, onions, and lettuce. Amazing, not quite worth 30 Cedis and 12 hours, but amazing nonetheless. Despite that fact that we weren’t able to see the game (or even step on Togo soil), the coastal drive to and from the border was beautiful, in an imperfect world, what more could we ask for?
anecdote: When we finally got off the bus, I asked Sauce if he was hungry (which he always is) and he said, jokingly serious, "yeah, but I only have that fake money for that fake country that we never went to". I laughed, then we walked to the traveling market where I bought him lunch in exchange for his fake money that I will use in Senegal. 1,000 CFA will probably get me quite a few more guacamole baguettes (fingers crossed that they have them there).
Thursday, October 8, 2009
the market
Day 75.
Makola Market in Accra must be one of the largest in Ghana. It is a maze of stands, stalls, and so many people selling everything imaginable: flags, fabric, flip-flops, fan yogo, frying pans, fish, fruit …and those are just the things that begin with “f”. It is easy to get lost in the labyrinth and asking for directions usually just ends you up in the same place. Following someone is the only way to actually get to where you need to go. Winding through tro-tro stations, vegetable markets, clothes stalls, seamstress booths, and endless masses of people, who are all there doing the very same thing. The aromas are sometimes overwhelming; a combination of the best and worst scents possible (though worst takes the cake). Surrounded by vendors saying, “buy something from me!” “what do you want?” “America, I love you” “What is your name?” “Obruni, obruni, obruni”. Most just want to say hi and maybe touch your arm, others are aggressive but usually easy to handle but just walking away intently. Some just laugh. It is easy to get frustrated with all the attention but I have to keep in mind that I will never fit in here and sometimes I have to laugh at myself too. Despite the layer of dirt I was covered in and the exhaustion I felt after four hours of this, I left Makolaadfs with a smile…really looking forward to a nice cold bucket shower.
Makola Market in Accra must be one of the largest in Ghana. It is a maze of stands, stalls, and so many people selling everything imaginable: flags, fabric, flip-flops, fan yogo, frying pans, fish, fruit …and those are just the things that begin with “f”. It is easy to get lost in the labyrinth and asking for directions usually just ends you up in the same place. Following someone is the only way to actually get to where you need to go. Winding through tro-tro stations, vegetable markets, clothes stalls, seamstress booths, and endless masses of people, who are all there doing the very same thing. The aromas are sometimes overwhelming; a combination of the best and worst scents possible (though worst takes the cake). Surrounded by vendors saying, “buy something from me!” “what do you want?” “America, I love you” “What is your name?” “Obruni, obruni, obruni”. Most just want to say hi and maybe touch your arm, others are aggressive but usually easy to handle but just walking away intently. Some just laugh. It is easy to get frustrated with all the attention but I have to keep in mind that I will never fit in here and sometimes I have to laugh at myself too. Despite the layer of dirt I was covered in and the exhaustion I felt after four hours of this, I left Makolaadfs with a smile…really looking forward to a nice cold bucket shower.
Monday, October 5, 2009
...and I'm feeling good.
day 72.
last week: traditional dance performance. contemporary dance performance. paper writing. dance party. school play. pool party.
this week: paper writing. picture taking. bollywood film festival. market shopping.
this weekend: (fingers crossed) traveling to Benin to watch the Black Stars (again!)!
I feel refreshed. Almost as if I just arrived but this time in familiar settings. I love Ghana and I still have so much to look forward to: Boti Falls, botanical gardens, Mole National Park, Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary, rock shrines, the mysterious tree that moves around, Togo, Benin, Senegal!
last week: traditional dance performance. contemporary dance performance. paper writing. dance party. school play. pool party.
this week: paper writing. picture taking. bollywood film festival. market shopping.
this weekend: (fingers crossed) traveling to Benin to watch the Black Stars (again!)!
I feel refreshed. Almost as if I just arrived but this time in familiar settings. I love Ghana and I still have so much to look forward to: Boti Falls, botanical gardens, Mole National Park, Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary, rock shrines, the mysterious tree that moves around, Togo, Benin, Senegal!
Thursday, October 1, 2009
little things
Day 68.
There are strange, small, unidentified bugs that live on the walls in the shower, along with camouflage geckos.
On the walk to my 7:30 class, there is an elderly man with one tooth who always asks me to share my breakfast with him. I do.
There is a new vegan (!) stand at the Night Market, owned by a vegan woman. I have yet to explore its options.
The library is my favorite building on campus, especially because everything in it is at least 20 years old and dusty.
The “Healing Jesus Crusade” is coming to campus on October 9-10. The flyer boasts the words “Miracle Power!” and Evangelist dag Heward-Mills holding up multiple pairs of crutches. The flyer also notes that there will be a “Jesus March” on October 3.
Uncle Ben, the head porter in Volta Hall calls Carmen and me “Lucycar” when we are together (For the record Uncle B, as we nick named him after he gave us ours, must be the most jovial man I have ever met. Always a smile on his face ready to make conversation and laugh, he makes Volta Hall that much more amazing...Oh, and he rides a metallic gold bicycle, a little precariously, but none the less he is rad).
Found out that I have to keep my January 15th flight home because the first two weeks of the new year are booked, but I am going to call every week hoping for cancellations.
Finally got our passports back today after the month it took to extend our visas. Mine still expires before I leave so I have to go through the whole process again.
I have a small crush on 70-year old Professor Emeritus (in the botany department) Ebenezer Laing.
Lucas, the night guard for our block in Volta Hall like bananas so sometimes I surprise him with a bunch.
Baobab trees (Adansonia digitata) are my favorite so far -- photosynthetic bark near the base and stegosaurus spikes.
I miss you.
Top ten Ghanaian phrases:
1. “Obruni, how are you?” – Everyone from children to market women to professionals say this, always in the exact same tone.
2. “I’m fine”. – Never I’m good, or I’m not good or anything else, just “I’m fine”… always.
3. “Where are you going?” – Everyone and their mom wants to know this.
4. “Go and come.” – Said when you are leaving somewhere but will be returning later.
5. “You are invited.” -- People (especially strangers) say this to let you know that they want to share their food with you.
6. “Please, I’m coming”. – Used in place of the American “hold on”.
7. “It’s finished.” – When a particular item is sold out.
8. “Oh, sorry.” – Strangers and friends say this after you trip or drop something.
9. “You are welcome.” – Heard when arriving somewhere not after a “thank you”.
10. “Is that not it?” and “Is it okay?” – Professors say this to get clarification that the students understand.
There are strange, small, unidentified bugs that live on the walls in the shower, along with camouflage geckos.
On the walk to my 7:30 class, there is an elderly man with one tooth who always asks me to share my breakfast with him. I do.
There is a new vegan (!) stand at the Night Market, owned by a vegan woman. I have yet to explore its options.
The library is my favorite building on campus, especially because everything in it is at least 20 years old and dusty.
The “Healing Jesus Crusade” is coming to campus on October 9-10. The flyer boasts the words “Miracle Power!” and Evangelist dag Heward-Mills holding up multiple pairs of crutches. The flyer also notes that there will be a “Jesus March” on October 3.
Uncle Ben, the head porter in Volta Hall calls Carmen and me “Lucycar” when we are together (For the record Uncle B, as we nick named him after he gave us ours, must be the most jovial man I have ever met. Always a smile on his face ready to make conversation and laugh, he makes Volta Hall that much more amazing...Oh, and he rides a metallic gold bicycle, a little precariously, but none the less he is rad).
Found out that I have to keep my January 15th flight home because the first two weeks of the new year are booked, but I am going to call every week hoping for cancellations.
Finally got our passports back today after the month it took to extend our visas. Mine still expires before I leave so I have to go through the whole process again.
I have a small crush on 70-year old Professor Emeritus (in the botany department) Ebenezer Laing.
Lucas, the night guard for our block in Volta Hall like bananas so sometimes I surprise him with a bunch.
Baobab trees (Adansonia digitata) are my favorite so far -- photosynthetic bark near the base and stegosaurus spikes.
I miss you.
Top ten Ghanaian phrases:
1. “Obruni, how are you?” – Everyone from children to market women to professionals say this, always in the exact same tone.
2. “I’m fine”. – Never I’m good, or I’m not good or anything else, just “I’m fine”… always.
3. “Where are you going?” – Everyone and their mom wants to know this.
4. “Go and come.” – Said when you are leaving somewhere but will be returning later.
5. “You are invited.” -- People (especially strangers) say this to let you know that they want to share their food with you.
6. “Please, I’m coming”. – Used in place of the American “hold on”.
7. “It’s finished.” – When a particular item is sold out.
8. “Oh, sorry.” – Strangers and friends say this after you trip or drop something.
9. “You are welcome.” – Heard when arriving somewhere not after a “thank you”.
10. “Is that not it?” and “Is it okay?” – Professors say this to get clarification that the students understand.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
